How to make a circle skirt without a pattern

Step by step tutorial to make a circle skirt without a pattern. This tutorial includes a handy waist circumference chart, and instructions on how to add an inset pocket.

Yardage Requirements

Purchase five yards of 45” wide fabric. You can tweak your yardage requirements after you make your first skirt. If the total of the waist measure + the waist to hem length > 44”, then purchase five yards of 60” wide fabric.

Instructions

This full circle skirt is made of two half panels, which means you'll end up with two seams, one on each side. Make a 3 panel skirt for extra fullness. This skirt is made to slip over your hips, thus the skirt can sit either on your waist or hips.

1. Cut fabric in half so you have two 2.5 yard (30”) long pieces.

2. Fold each piece in half.

3. Draw in waist length: Measure around the fullest part of your hips. Use this number to find your waist length using the chart below. Pin a length of ribbon to the top corner edge of the fabric and tie the other end to a pencil. Use it as a compass to draw in a solid line (shown in image as dotted line).

4. Waist to hem length: This length starts at your waist (or hips) down to where you want the skirt to end. Add an extra 2” to fold up the hem.

Example: I want my skirt to start at my waist and end just below my knees. From my waist down, this measure is 25”. My waist to hem length is 25+2” hem = 27”.

WAIST LENGTH CHART

HIPS	2 PANELS	3 PANELS
30	4 2/8	2 7/8
31	4 4/8	3
32	4 5/8	3
33	4 6/8	3 1/8
34	4 7/8	3 2/8
35	5	3 3/8
36	5 1/8	3 4/8
37	5 2/8	3 4/8
38	5 4/8	3 5/8
39	5 5/8	3 6/8
40	5 6/8	3 7/8
41	5 7/8	3 7/8
42	6	4
43	6 1/8	4 1/8
44	6 2/8	4 2/8
45	6 4/8	4 2/8
46	6 5/8	4 3/8
47	6 6/8	4 4/8
48	6 7/8	4 5/8
49	7	4 5/8
50	7 1/8	4 6/8
51	7 2/8	4 7/8
52	7 4/8	5
53	7 5/8	5 1/8
54	7 6/8	5 1/8
55	7 7/8	5 2/8
56	8	5 3/8
57	8 1/8	5 4/8
58	8 2/8	5 4/8
59	8 4/8	5 5/8
60	8 5/8	5 6/8
Quick Reference
2/8	=	1/4
4/8	=	1/2
6/8	=	3/4

The waist length figures out how wide the waist has to be to fit over your hips. The math for the waist length is (hip measurement-(hip measurement*.10))/3.14/2. The .10 is to counter some the bias stretch resulting from a circular cut. The rest of the stretch is taken up by the 1/2” seam allowances.

5. If you don’t want a pocket, sew up the two side seams with a 1/2” seam allowance. Skip to the end of this post for various waist and hem finishes.

Add a hidden pocket

An inset pocket is easily sewn into the seam allowance before the side seams are sewn.

1. Click here to download my free pocket pattern. Cut two pocket pieces out of your fabric.

 

2. Mark and notch the side of your skirt 7” - 8” from the waist. Be sure to notch both sides at once.

 

3. Open up the skirt. Pin one pocket piece below the notch. Sew along the straight seam allowance, all across the pocket.

4. Press out the seam allowances. Flip and press the pocket to the side.

 

5. Mark the bottom edge of the pocket. Draw in your seam allowances. I place yellow pins before the pocket seam allowance as a warning not to stitch closed the pocket opening.

 

6. Stitch along the entire length of the seam allowance from the waist, around the pockets, and down to the hem. Press the pocket stitching, side seams, and pocket opening.

 

7. Admire your new inset pocket!

Waist Finishes

There are various ways to finish the waist:

1. Gather it into a waistband
2. add a facing
3. add bias tape to insert elastic

Hem Finishes

Here are several different hem techniques:

1. simple hem using Gertie’s technique
2. use a rolled hem foot
3. attach a ruffle to the bottom of hem
4. fold the hem to the right side and cover with trim.