Highly recommended pattern. Good for advanced beginners. Instructions are extremely easy to follow, and actual construction is not complicated. I left the front open, and did not add boning. I would add stronger interfacing for the cuffs.
Truly Victorian TV405 1872 Vest Basque
- Pattern: Truly Victorian TV405 1872 Vest Basque
- Pattern sizing: 30” – 50” bust included in one pattern. I cut a size C.
- Fabric: 100% fashion fabric silk, 100% cotton for collars, cuffs and vest front, 100% cotton muslin for lining and 100% cotton herringbone twill for interlining.
Step 1 Cutting the pieces: Be mindful of the grainline and how many of each piece you need to cut out.
Step 2 Flat line fashion fabric: Seriously, don't skip this part.
Step 3 Sew darts
Step 4-8 Assembly line sewing
Step 9 Collar: The collar is attached so you can actually see the seamline. The lining will attach at the seamline thus turning the raw edges to the inside of the garment.
And this is where the picture documentation ends.
Step 10-11 Vest: Be sure to sew right sides together. This was the first time I use plaid fabric so I had to cut the fashion fabric piece out a couple of times to get it right. Trick is to match the plaid at the stitching line not the cutting line.
Step 12 Boning: I found it unnecessary (and time consuming) to add boning to this jacket. Maybe next time.
Step 13 Sleeves a. The instructions clearly show where to stitch on the cuff. The stitching ends at the notches. In hindsight I would add interfacing or an inner lining to the cuffs since I used cotton for the fashion fabric and lining. I don't believe it would be necessary if you're using a heavy fashion fabric. c. Pin down the corner of the cuff down and out of the way so you can stitch closely without sewing the cuff to the sleeve. g-h. Make sure to match that notch at the top and match the back seamline. Pin the sleeve to the jacket first to find the exact area to place the gathering stitches.
Step 14-16 Lining This is where it gets interesting. Sew all outside edges. All of them. It concerned me because it didn't look like the entire thing would turn inside out. Thankfully it did. It was quite easy to iron everything down flat.
Step 17-21 Finish basting I didn't baste the pleats to the jacket and left the vest open. Stitched the armholes though. Eventually I'll make this jacket again so all is not lost. If you have any questions or problems with the construction of this jacket I'll try to help you - just leave a comment.